Pet information center

Koi Ponds

2010-03-20T09:09:00.000-05:00

Summer time is fast approching here in the south and that means it is time to get your fish pond in shape.

We all seem to forget about the care of our ponds in the cold weather as the fish are less active. With spring we need to vacuum out the sediment that has accumulated on the bottom throughout winter. You can get a $20 vac that hooks to your hose that works just fine from Lowes.

The fish will begin to become more active, and that means they will require more food. As the weather warms begin to increase the amount and frequency of feeding. Start cleaning your filter more often to clear up the water and turn on any UV light. You will also need to test the water on a regular basis to stay on top of any ammonia spikes due to the sediment in the pond.

Plants may have also died off through the winter so you will need to replace any dead ones. Plants are great for natural filtration and provide much needed oxygen to the water. You will need a variety of plants from submerged plants to plants that float. Lillie's and hyacinths are great for the surface and shade help control algae by shading the pond.

Ponds can be a beautiful addition to your yard if cared for properly. So spend a little time keeping them up and you will enjoy years of pleasure from you pond.

Choosing A New Puppy: 3 Factors To Consider

2010-03-17T11:07:00.000-05:00

An important step towards a happy and long-lasting relationship with any

puppy is the ability to meet your expectations and requirements to the

puppies personality and needs.

Children In The Household

Whatever type of puppy you decided to pick, keep in mind that taking

care of a young pup involves the same amount of commitment and time that

a young child needs, and sometimes more.

Having both together under the same roof requires constant supervision

to keep them from literally hurting each other. Keeping a close eye at

all times prevents roughhousing, pulling, biting, and any potential

injuries to occur.

Most trainers and breeders recommend that homes with toddlers should not

get a toy breed because of the risk of the puppy getting squeezed,

dropped, or stepped on by the young child. However, if you already have

your heart set on a toy breed for your child to grow up with, pick one

with a gentle disposition and an easy-going personality.

Level of Protectiveness

For most dog owners, a dog that barks when someone approaches the door

is enough to give them a sense of security, just like having a living

home alarm system. The bark of a small dog is just as effective in

turning away an intruder as the bark of a large dog would be. Dachshunds

and most toy breeds are excellent watchdogs. Terriers are also great

for the job.

If you are looking for a dog that can protect you and has the physical

appearance to prove it, think about getting a herding breed or a working

breed. Dogs from these breeds are protective of their owners and have

the looks that deter burglars. They are also highly skilled and easily

trainable.

Time Spent

One of the reasons why dogs are such popular pets is because they are

naturally social in nature, making them a great companion. Keeping this

in mind, do not get one if you plan on keeping him out in the backyard

all day long. This is especially true for puppies, since they require

more supervision, more interaction, and regular training to be a more

socialized and civilized member of the family.

The average dog spends at least eight hours a day, five days a week,

home alone. Some breeds are more adaptable to this kind of living

situation. Most terriers, for example, find ways to entertain themselves

given enough space for them to roam around. The same is true for

Siberian Huskies and Alaskan Malamutes.

Mineral Blocks for Birds

2010-03-15T13:43:00.000-05:00

          Mineral blocks help keep your bird's beak trimmed while supplying important nutrients to its diet. They will even help keep the bird’s beak trimmed down.

          You can make your own mineral blocks or buy them at a pet store. You can even buy mineral blocks that are flavored with vegetables or fruits.

          Most recipes for mineral blocks use plaster of paris. Years ago plaster of paris contained asbestos which was harmful. Today’s plaster of paris does not contain asbestos, but caution should be taken not to breathe in the dust because of the silica it contains.
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Make Your Own Mineral Blocks

5 parts lime (found in garden center)
2 parts ( or more) plaster of paris
4 parts bone meal (found in garden center)
1 part mineral supplement
a little dicalcium phosphate
enough water to make a thick cake batter

Use garden twist wires and make a “squashed” loop ( Ω ) to go into the mixture as soon as it is poured into smooth sided cups sprayed with Pam Cooking Spray so that they slide out easy.

Note: Plastic ice cube trays may be used. Do not use pleated nut cups; the hardened product is hard to get out.
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Birdie Mineral Blocks
1 pound plaster of Paris
1/2 cup oyster shell
1/2 tsp Kelp (find at a health food store)
1 tbs salt
1 cup water
Mix this fast and have containers ready, small plastic bowls or ice cube trays work well. If you want to bolt them or twist tie them to the cage make sure you push the bolt or tie in while mix is wet. After they are set, smack the containers to release them.
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NOTE: Special cleanup methods should be used with plaster of paris as it can interfere with the flow of plumbing systems downstream of the disposal area. The residue of these products will often solidify underwater and plug up drains, stain gutters and sidewalks and spoil planting areas.

Things to know before you get a dog

2010-03-15T11:40:00.000-05:00

• How big do you want the dog to be when full-grown? All puppies are cute, but some will get bigger and bigger. Make this decision before you look at puppies.
• Do you want a lap dog or a larger dog that can live more outdoors? Either size will require a fenced in area unless you plan to walk him on a leash to potty. The larger the dog, the larger the fenced-in area needs to be.
• Do you want to housetrain a puppy or get a dog a bit older? Most people think you have to get a puppy, but getting an older dog that is already housetrained could be a real advantage for people who work 8 hours a day. Check with the shelter in your area or ask the breeder if he has an older dog you might see.
• Do we want a male or a female? In most cases, since you are going to (hopefully) have the pet altered, it does not matter. Males are more likely to mark their territory by hiking their legs on your furniture or curtains. If a female is not spayed, she will come into season twice a year.
• Do you want a short haired or longhaired dog? If you choose a longhaired dog, remember that you have to brush or comb the coat on a regular basis which could be daily or at least once a week. Bathing and drying a longhaired breed can also be some trouble so you may have to take the dog to a groomer every two weeks or month.
• How do you feel about shedding? Even shorthaired dogs shed. Use a rubber curry to brush shorthaired dogs; it pulls out only the loose or dead hairs. The poodle is known as one of the few dogs that does not shed very much – but they require a lot of grooming. If the dog is going to shed, what color hair would you like them to have to blend in with your rug or sofa?
• Do you want a dog that needs frequent grooming, or none? Whether you take your dog to a groomer or not, you still need to do some brushing and grooming at home.
• How much time will you have to exercise the dog? Dogs need exercise – some a lot more than others. Exercise might be chasing a ball in the house for a small dog to jogging with you around the block for the larger breeds. Exercise needs to be daily and not just on weekends.
• Floppy ears, or ears that stand up? Dogs with floppy ears have a tendency to get ear infections since the ear canal is dark, warm, and damp. For some dogs’ ears to stand up, they have to be cropped which means the vet cuts them and tapes them up for a month or more.
• Do you want a dog that will live 8-10 years or one that may live to 15 years? The general rule of thumb is the bigger the dog, the shorter his life span will be. The Great Dane has one of the shortest life spans while the Chihuahua has one of the longest.
• What is the temperament of the breed in general? Herding breeds like Border Collies need lots of exercise, or they get bored and look for something to do which usually get them in trouble with their owners. Chow Chows have very little side vision and have a tendency to snap at people coming up on their side or from behind them. Terriers are pretty much yappy and snappy dogs.
Research breeds by consulting The AKC Complete Book of Dogs.

Monkeys

2010-03-10T08:44:00.004-06:00

Monkeys are too social and intelligent animals to make good pets for the vast majority of people. Their child-like dependency and friendliness fade as they mature to adults when they generally become aggressive and attack the ones that love at the slightest (or no) provocation. The monkeys you see on television or out in public are juveniles, borrowed from the zoo, returned when they become unmanageable and replaced with new infants – a never ending cycle that should not be allowed. Adults are rarely seen outside of cages. Even hand-rearing an infant primate will not alter this natural change in monkey behavior. It will, however, make the pet an outcast; often unable to adjust to a monkey troop and result in a lifetime of neurotic behavior. One monkey owner stated that she had hand-reared a monkey that she worked with for seven years and that would go everywhere with her—and all of a sudden one day she just turned on the owner.

There are very few veterinarians who will care for monkeys when they get ill or who will perform annual health checkups. These checkups need to include tuberculosis testing, possibly viral testing, vaccinations and blood examinations. Most of its teeth will eventually be extracted to prevent injury to you or other monkeys. Neutering the monkey will not change its disposition. Proper caging is challenging and bulky. Monkeys are masters at escape and the cost of a humane, home-made, government-approved, indoor-outdoor cages for medium size primates is many hundreds of dollars - thousands of dollars if a profession contractor builds it. People who purchase monkey as pets tend to feed them the foods they eat themselves, and monkeys that live off human table scraps inevitably do poorly and do not live very long.

Let’s say that none of the above issues concern you, or you have accepted them, or your just hell-bent on having a monkey, and let’s say you have unlimited financial resources, acreage and enthusiasm. The next thing to consider is what will happen to this poor animal if things don’t work out or if you situation changes in the next 30 – 40 years. Things will happen in your life that you never anticipate, and when they do, who is going to take responsibility and care for this monkey? Will he/she have to endure the psychological trauma of loosing its adoptive family and moving to new or poorer facilities or being bulk-loaded in some overcrowded sanctuary? Will the police destroy the animal? Will you be sued over its actions? Will it end up in some roadside carnival? There are many, many more displaced, second, third and fourth-hand monkeys in the United States than there are reputable sanctuaries that will accept them. Zoos don't take former pets. Some unwanted primates end up in sanctuaries to live out their remaining days, sanctuaries today are usually filled to capacity and will not take another until one of theirs dies. Sadly, most end up being sold and resold over and over again. Others are sent to laboratories or used in breeding programs.

The health and safety hazards associated with exposure to monkeys and other nonhuman primates prompted the U.S. Centers for Disease Control in 1975 to prohibit them from being imported into the United States for use as pets. Today, monkeys offered for sale are surplus animals from zoos and laboratories or from breeders. Just about every species of primate, from capuchins to chimpanzees, is available though with prices ranging from $1,500 to $50,000. Even endangered species, like Diana monkeys, lemurs, and gibbons, are for sale.
If you own a Monkey, please let me know what your story is as this is the one type of animal I have not owned.

By: Sallie S.

I Love Finches

2010-03-08T10:44:00.002-06:00

Finches are a small bird between 3” and 8” in length with an average life span of 4 to more than 8 years. They are fairly quiet and very active birds that do not enjoy human contact so they are not the type to own if you want a bird that sits on your finger, for this you need a parrot. They are beautifully colored birds that are enjoyable to watch as they play in their cages or sing to you.

Finches should be housed in pairs or more of the same or compatible species of finch, do not house with parrots. The most common species available are the Zebra finch, Society finch, Lady Gouldian and Spice finch. Zebra finches are the easiest to find and come in a variety of color mutations and are fairly hardy and easy to keep and breed.

There are hundreds of species and varieties of finches, some more colorful than others. Some of the more colorful species include the Lady Gouldian finch, Red-Headed Parrot finch and strawberry finch.

Zebra finches are my favorite finches to raise because they take up little room and the cost is less per bird. I can match mates to try and get the different color variations and the young are easy to sell.

Do you have a favorite bird? If so let me know and we can discuss it here.

By: Gene L.

Owning Parrots

2010-03-05T12:02:00.003-06:00

When I first got into parrots I lost the first bird I owned from lack of knowledge. So I set out to learn all I could before I got my next bird, which is what I should of done in the first place. One of our friends had a Moluccan Cockatoo she did not want anymore so she gave her to me. She was a lovable older bird and I enjoyed her for about six months before I found out why she gave her to me. She had been around other parrots all her life and was at the age where she was ready to breed.

I found a breeder who needed a hen in their breeding program and traded her for a male African Grey baby. He was six weeks old when I got him and needed to be hand fed every 4 to 6 hours. By now I had found local breeders that had been teaching me how to raise a baby bird. I sill have this bird 9 years later and he talks way too much.

My wife and I enjoyed the bird so much that we started breeding Cockatiels. One thing let to another and soon we had finches, macaws, conures and too many other varieties to mention. Birds are very addictive and owning just one is near impossible, so be careful if you get one.

Has anyone else had this problem? Leave comments and let me know about your pets.

Gene

Hedgehog Basics

2010-02-24T10:02:00.002-06:00

The hedgehogs commonly kept as pets in North America appear to by a mix of species, originally native to Africa. The term "African Pygmy Hedgehog" is a descriptive term (coined by breeders), rather than a true species name.
They are considered primarily insectivores (insects make up the largest part of their natural diet).
Their backs are covered with rows of short prickly spines and their bellies are covered with soft fur.
When threatened, they roll into a tight ball with just a mass of spines poking out. When relaxed, the spines lay almost flat.
Thanks to selective breeding, hedgehogs are now available in a huge array of color variations.
They are quite compact, reaching a size of around 5-8 inches in length.
Estimates of expected life span vary widely, anywhere from 3-8 years, although 4-6 years is probably most typical.
Hedgehogs are illegal in some areas.
They are fairly low maintenance pets, and while they don't mind handling, once used to it they don't really seem to "crave" human interaction.

Choosing a Hedgehog

It is best to locate a reputable breeder who breeds for good temperament and makes sure young hedgehogs are handled regularly. Getting a young hedgehog (6-8 weeks) is the best way to make sure your hedgehog will get used to being handled. If possible, try to pick up the hedgehog to gauge its reaction - try to choose one that will allow itself to be picked up and maybe even turned on its back without rolling into a tight ball and staying there. Look for bright eyes, clear nostrils, and healthy looking skin, quills and fur. Watch out for flaky skin, missing quills, discharge around the eyes or nose, or evidence of diarrhea. Also make sure the hedgehog is in good body condition - neither too thin nor overweight (a good place to check is around the leg). Watch out for rolls of fat as obesity is a common problem.

Housing

Males and females generally are equally good pets. Plan on only one hedgehog to a cage. Most hedgehogs are perfectly happy to be kept alone and in fact, often fight if kept with other hedgehogs.

Cages: Allow a bare minimum of 2-3 square feet of floor space (bigger is better). Many types of cages can be used - but always avoid wire floors and be cautious about the spacing of wire sided cages - the narrower the better. Aquariums, plastic commercial cages or even modified plastic storage bins can be used. Clear plastic storage bins can be modified to allow adequate ventilation (a row of holes around the top of the bin and/or in the lid works okay).

Bedding: Aspen shavings or newer alternatives to wood shavings can be used, but avoid cedar shavings. Pine is probably okay, especially kiln dried, but there are alternatives available. Some people use indoor/outdoor carpeting such as Astroturf (using a heat source to seal the edges so threads do not come loose) to line the cage.

Litter box: A small shallow pan with dust-free cat litter can be provided and may become the hedgehog’s primary bathroom area. Do not use clumping litter though.

House/Hide: A cardboard box or some other enclosed hiding place should be provided as a secure haven for your hedgehog.

Exercise: A wheel provides great exercise and is helpful in preventing obesity. An open sided, solid surface wheel is preferred and should be quite large. A good example of a hedgehog safe wheel is the Haba Safety Wheel. Standard wire wheels can be modified with plastic to make a solid surface as well.

Feeding

This is a controversial area in hedgehog care. For many years, high quality cat food has been the recommended food of choice, supplemented and mealworms or crickets and other treats.

Commercial hedgehogs diets are now available, which are not ideal but are, for the most part, better formulated for hedgehogs than cat food (although some hedgehogs do not like them as much as cat food). These can still be difficult to find in pet stores but are becoming more widely available online.

Prepared insectivore diets (such as Zoo Fare) are another good alternative, often favored by exotic animal veterinarians and zoos. In any case, a mixture or variety of foods is probably the best choice, for both health and preventing diet boredom. Hedgehogs tend to love mealworms which make a good occasional treat. Crickets can also be fed. Small amounts of hardboiled egg, baby foods or fruit can be given as occasional treats. Treats should be fed in moderation only.

Handling

Most hedgehogs do not particularly like to be cuddled, but most will allow themselves to be picked up and will readily climb over their people. You can tame hedgehogs by handling gently and frequently, gently scooping up the hedgehog around the sides.

If you get your hedgie from a good breeder who has been handling them, your hedgehog will most likely be quite tame already. Initially, your hedgehog may curl into a ball when you try to pick him up. However, if you just cradle the ball of hedgehog in your hands, the spines do not really hurt, and usually the hedgehog will unroll within a few minutes and start exploring once it realizes you mean no harm. Be careful the hedgehog does not manage to coil into a ball over one of your fingers though - this is extremely painful!

If your hedgehog is really resistant to handling at first, a thick towel should be all you need to be able to pick him up.

When starting out with a new hedgie, try to practice handling at times the hedgehog is awake (like early evening) as a sleepy hedgehog will understandable be more grumpy. You can also try hand feeding favorite treats such as mealworms to gain the trust of your hedgehog.

Self Anointing

Hedgehogs have a remarkable habit called "self-anointing" which can be somewhat startling the first time an owner sees it happening. Particular smells seem to send the hedgehog into a flurry of contortions as it starts to salivate profusely and spread the saliva over its back. No one is entirely sure why hedgehogs do this, and some seem more prone to it than others, but it is not a cause for concern.

Article by: Sallie S.

Common diseases of Ferrets

2010-02-15T09:37:00.000-06:00

Canine Distemper (CD) – A dog is usually the source, incubation period is 7-9 days, some vaccines may induce this disease in ferrets so a veterinarian familiar with ferret treatment should be consulted regarding proper vaccination for this disease.

Human Influenza - Several strains cause mild upper respiratory disease in ferrets. This may be fatal for young kits.

Aleutian Disease - caused by a parvovirus, results in immunodepression and susceptibility to secondary infections

Rabies - Not always lethal, not proven to be transmittable through saliva, live virus utilized for immunizing dogs can induce rabies in ferrets. No vaccine is licensed at this time for use in ferrets.

Bacterial Diseases (common to PET ferrets)

Abscesses - Common in the upper mandibular area, normally a “staph” or “strep” infection. Treatment is drainage under anesthetic followed by antibiotic treatment.

Enteritis - This is common in young ferrets and may be a cause of sudden death. It is noted by bloody diarrhea. A fecal culture should be examined if enteritis is suspected and the treatment based on the bacterial findings.

Botulism - Ferrets are susceptible to Clostridium botulinum type C. Paralysis is normally quickly followed by death. An annual toxoid vaccination can be given if deemed necessary for your area.

Skin Conditions

Fleas - are commonly picked up from dogs, cats and wild animals. Treatments accepted for dogs and cats are safe for ferrets.

Ear Mites - These parasites are common in ferrets and can be treated with eardrops containing gamma BHC or by two injections of Ivermec two weeks apart.

Dental diseases - can be a problem with ferrets but are usually a result of improper diet. Diets of soft foods are not beneficial for ferrets. Hard diets help to clean teeth reducing dental problems.

Note: Anal gland removal is of no benefit in reducing ferret odor as the odor is secreted through the skin glands. "Descenting" is simply a mutilation which can result in impairment of the function of the anal sphincter muscle.

Article by: Sallie S.

Ferrets

2010-02-02T09:31:00.000-06:00

Ferrets in the United States today are usually raised for personal pets; however, this is not the historical use of this lively and curious creature. Domesticated more than 2,000 years ago from the European polecat the common ferret has been used for hunting rabbits in Britain for centuries. This small creature is still used today for hunting and showing and to a lesser extent for fur ranching as they are far more docile then their relative the mink. Ferrets have a reputation of unpredictability; however, this is often unwarranted, and they make wonderful companions when properly raised and handled.

Facts Chart

HOUSING:

Any secure cage with a mesh size of approximately 1" X 2" (maximum) for adult ferrets.

Floor Size: 3ft X 2ft X 2ft is adequate, more is better

Nest or Hiding area of 25% of the cage

Larger exercise area available

Emphasis should be placed on secure construction, as ferrets are resourceful

Acceptable bedding materials are straw and wood shavings

Ferrets may be housed in groups if the cage is of adequate size. They get along very well especially when all parties are reproductively fixed.

FEED:

Ferrets are true carnivores (meat eaters) and can eat any high quality cat food. It should have 30% protein and a high percent fat (~30%). Commercial ferret diets are available, but unless raised on that diet from weaning, most ferrets will not eat them. Always have fresh water available.

HANDLING:

When handled often, ferrets are very tame and easily picked up. Support the body completely as you lift them, or they will squirm.

Young ferrets may try to nip you. If this is the case, wear gloves when handling them and do not pull away when they nip. If you do pull away, then they have learned how to keep from doing what you want, and they will continue to bite. A few days of gloved hands will protect your fingers and quickly teach your ferret not to bite as it does it no good.

CHOOSING A FERRET:

When choosing a ferret for a pet you should always analyze the animal's personality and health. You should look for a ferret that is friendly and does not seem to be too nervous around people. Understand that this animal has never seen you before and will understandably be a bit concerned by your presence until it gets used to your smell.

The ferret that you pick should also appear healthy. It should be bright eyed and alert. There should not be patches of missing skin or fur on its body. The animal should breath easily with no nasal discharge. You should always buy from a reputable retailer or breeder. The person selling the animal should be able to tell you it's past health history as well as the history of the animals living with and around it. He should also be willing to guarantee that it is healthy. If you plan to breed your ferrets, you should also ask about genetic defects in parents or litter mates as well as being sure that the male and female that you have picked out are not related.

Reproduction Notes

You should also check to see if your chosen ferret has been fixed (spayed or neutered). ALL pet female ferrets should be spayed as early as possible because a female ferrets will not go out of heat until bred and depleted bone marrow will result from the prolonged bleeding. This will eventually kill the jill (female ferret). Most of these surgeries are completed before the sale of female ferrets to prevent future problems. Unfixed male ferrets have a strong odor upon reaching sexual maturity.

Young are born underdeveloped and are nearly impossible to hand raise prior to 1 week old. Disturbances during this initial week may cause cannibalism in some jills.

Veterinary Visits
Ferrets, when young, should be seen yearly for exams and vaccines. A fecal exam should also be performed. Ferrets tend to have few problems until they reach three or four years of age when problems are common. Ferrets are considered geriatric at this age. Common conditions include hormonal imbalances, blood sugar problems and tumors. It is recommended that an older ferret be seen more frequently.

Zoonosis

2010-01-21T10:25:00.000-06:00

Zoonosis is a medical term for diseases that can be transmitted directly from our pets to us. Pet owners have become very complacent about the diseases that can be shared between us and our pets mainly because of the advent of all kinds of good deworming medications that have come out over the years. DON’T BECOME COMPLACENT ABOUT PARASITES, especially those that can move from our pets to us. Be sure your pets and their environment are as worm free as possible.
The main culprits are Roundworms, Hookworms, Tapeworms and Heartworms. Because these are not reportable diseases, meaning there is no law requiring us to report these to the Center for Disease Control (CDC), no one really knows how prevalent these critters are. Suffice it to say, we all have to take them very seriously. They have been known to cause blindness and, in rare cases, even death
How do these get transmitted? Well, in general, there are a few basic ways we are at risk. The most common way is when dogs and cats defecate in garden beds or sandboxes, and children come in contact when playing or adults when gardening. Beaches can be another source of these creatures. Tapeworms are transmitted via fleas; so if your pet has fleas and brings them into the house, you are at risk. Heartworms can be transmitted by mosquitoes.
So what can we do? First and foremost, be sure your pets are free of the parasites. Have a fecal sample run for worms every year and in some areas every six months. It is also wise, regardless of the fecal results, for your veterinarian to prophylactically de-worm your pet every year. No fecal analysis is 100% accurate. Practice good hygiene by wearing gloves when you are gardening and washing your hands thoroughly afterward. Keep the children out of sandboxes that may be used by stray animals. Keep your pets flea and tick free. Use the monthly preventive medications that are available for heartworms for your dogs (and cats!).
Most importantly, speak to your veterinarian about this most important issue and be sure you have a strategic plan in place to prevent your pet, and therefore yourself, from having parasites.

Article by: Sallie S.

Traveling with your Dog

2010-01-11T09:52:00.000-06:00

When deciding if your pet should travel with you, consider the alternatives: have a responsible friend or relative look after your pet, board your pet at a reputable kennel or hire a pet-sitter to visit, feed, and exercise your pet.

If you decide to take your pet with you:

*Check to be sure pets are allowed at your destination. Many hotels/motels do not accept pets.

*Make sure that your dog is used to car travel - a holiday excursion should not be his first trip in a car. If you know that he is likely to be sick or excitable in the car, then ask your veterinarian to prescribe some travel sickness medication - this usually also has a tranquilizing effect.

*Do not let your dog travel loose in your vehicle. Place him in a carrier so that if you are involved in an accident, he will not be thrown about in the car. Should you be injured, other people will be able to care for him. Put his name on the carrier as well as any special instructions. Of course, make sure the carrier is also secured to the back seat with a seat belt.

*Make regular stops to allow him to relieve himself if necessary and offer him water to drink. Keep him on a lead when you exercise him and never let him run loose at a service station or near a busy road.

*Do not leave your pet in a stationary car in hot weather. Never leave him in direct sunlight; always park in the shade. Even in dull weather, dogs should not be left in cars for more than 5-10 minutes. Make sure that he has some drinking water. Leave the windows open wide enough to allow fresh air in but not him out! Window attachments are available that allow the window to be left open, without your dog escaping. You might consider one of those solar powered fans that fit in the window. The fan fits snugly in the window, the sun powers the fan, and air is circulate within your vehicle. On a warm day, the inside of a parked car can reach over 100 degrees in minutes. Since dogs are unable to cool off through perspiration, they pant, and even a short trip to the grocery store can be lethal.

*Do not let your dog put his head out of a moving vehicle as this can lead to eye injuries and may cause an accident.

*Do not let your do ride in the back of a pick-up truck. It is very dangerous, and in some states, it is illegal The sun can heat a truck bed enough to burn the pads on your dog's feet, and flying debris may cause other injuries. A dog that is allowed to ride in the back of a pick-up truck, tied or untied, may be strangled or thrown from the vehicle into traffic

*Make a list of Emergency Veterinary Clinics in the area to which you're headed and take his vaccination records with you along with your veterinarian’s phone number.

*Replace your pet's I.D. tag with a temporary one displaying your temporary address.

*Don't let fleas become unwanted souvenirs! If your pet got fleas while you got a tan, have a veterinarian treat the animal before you return home. And, when you return home from your trip, make sure to thoroughly vacuum your rugs and furniture before you let your pet inside because during your trip, any fleas and ticks in your house may have multiplied, and your pet could become infested as soon as his paws hit the floor.

Avoid traveling by airplane with your pet unless absolutely necessary. High humidity and temperatures can suffocate an animal forced to remain in the plane's cargo hold over long periods of time. The airline may allow you to take a cat or small dog on board with you. If your pet must travel in the cargo hold, try to travel during cooler times of the day, make sure you are on a direct flight and travel on the same flight as your pet. Always inform the flight attendant that your pet is in the cargo hold. Never ship short-nosed animals such as Boston terriers, or Pekingese or Persian cats because their short nasal passages do not give hot air a chance to cool before it reaches their lungs.

Article by: Sallie S.

Have a Disaster Plan

2009-12-31T10:32:00.000-06:00

Hurricanes, floods, wildfires, hazardous material spills--disasters can strike any time, anywhere. But with preparation and planning, your family--including your pets--can be protected. The Disaster Response Team of The Humane Society of the United States has kindly supplied us with their CASEY (Caring for Animals Safety in Emergencies during the Year) Plan. For more information, you can visit their website at www.hsus.org.

THE HSUS/CASEY PLAN

If You Evacuate, Take Your Pets

The single most important thing that you can do to protect your pets if you evacuate is to take your pets with you! If it's not safe for you to stay in the disaster area, it's not safe for your pets.

Animals left behind in a disaster can easily get injured, lost or killed. Animals left inside your home can escape through broken windows or other storm-damaged areas of your home, and animals turned loose to fend for themselves are likely to become victims of exposure, starvation, predators, contaminated food or water, or accidents. Leaving dogs tied or chained outside in a disaster is a death sentence!

Once you leave your home, you have no way of knowing how long you'll be kept out of the area. If you leave, even if you think you may only be gone for a few hours, take your animals.

Leave early--don't wait for a mandatory evacuation order. An unnecessary trip is far better than waiting too long to leave safely with your pets. If you must be evacuated by emergency officials, you may be told to leave your pets behind.

Don't Forget I.D.

Your pets should be wearing up-to-date identification at all times. It's a good idea to include a phone number of a friend or relative outside your immediate area.

Find a Safe Place--Ahead of Time

Because evacuation shelters generally don't accept pets, except for service animals, you must plan ahead to ensure that your family and your pets will have a safe place to stay. Don't wait until disaster strikes to do your research.

Contact hotels and motels outside your immediate area to check policies on accepting pets. Keep a list of "pet-friendly" places handy. Call ahead for a reservation as soon as you think you might have to leave your home.

Ask friends, relatives or others outside your immediate area if they would shelter you and your animals, or just your animals, if necessary. If you have more than one pet, be prepared to house them separately.

Make a list of veterinarians and boarding facilities who might shelter animals in emergencies; include 24-hour phone numbers.

Ask your local animal shelter if they provide emergency foster care or shelter for pets in an emergency. This should be your last resort, as shelters have limited resources and are likely to be stretched to their limits during an emergency.

Disaster Supply Checklist for Pets

Every member of your family should know what he needs to take when you evacuate. You also need to prepare supplies for your pet. Stock up on non-perishables well ahead of time; add perishable items at the last minute; have everything ready to go at a moment's notice. Keep everything accessible, stored in sturdy containers that can be carried easily (duffle bags, covered trash containers, etc.).

Store medications and medical records in a waterproof container and prepare a pet first aid kit. A pet first aid book is also good to include.

Have sturdy leashes, harnesses and/or carriers to transport pets safely and to ensure that your pets can't escape. (Carriers should be large enough for the animal to stand comfortably, turn around, and lie down. Your pet may have to stay in the carrier for hours at a time.)

Keep current photos of your pet for identification in case your pet gets lost.

Other items you will need are food, water, bowls, cat litter and litter box, and a manually-operated can opener. Pet beds and toys may be taken. Other useful items include newspapers, paper towels, plastic trash bags, grooming items, and household bleach.

Prepare an information sheet on feeding schedules, medical conditions, behavior problems, and the name and number of your veterinarian in case you have to board your pets or place them in foster care.

If You Don't Evacuate

If your family and pets must wait out a storm or other disaster at home, identify a safe area of your home where you can all stay together. Keep dogs on leashes and cats in carriers and make sure they are wearing identification. Have any medications and a supply of pet food and water inside watertight containers along with your other emergency supplies. If you need to purify water, add 2 drops of household bleach per quart of water, mix, seal tightly, and let stand for 30 minutes before drinking.

In Case You're Not Home

An evacuation order may come or a disaster may strike when you're at work or out of the house. Find out if a trusted neighbor would be able to take your pets and meet you at a prearranged location. If so, be sure that the person is comfortable with your pets, knows where your animals are likely to be, knows where your disaster supplies are kept, and has a key to your home. If you use a petsitting service, they may be able to help but discuss the possibility well in advance.

After the Storm

Don't allow your pets to roam loose. Familiar landmarks and smells might be gone, and your pet will probably be disoriented--pets can easily get lost in such situations. Walk dogs on a leash and keep cats inside (or in carriers, if your house is damaged and they could escape). Be patient with your pets after a disaster. Try to get them back into their normal routines as soon as possible. Be ready for behavioral problems that may result from stress. If problems persist or if your pet seems to be having any health problems, talk to a veterinarian.

If You Can Not Take Your Pet with You

If you cannot take your pet with you, make sure your pet can get into a safe, secure room without windows but with adequate air (like a big bathroom). Leave enough food for three days. Leaving enough water for your pet is very important. One pet can drink several gallons of water a day. Put water in containers that are not easily knocked over. Leave a faucet dripping into a bathtub or sink (with the drain open!). Leave their favorite bed and toys. Don’t confine dogs and cats in the same space. Put a notice on your front door saying where your pets are in the house and a phone number where you will be. Never, never, never leave your dog tied up outside!

Article by: Sallie S.

List of things to think about before you adopt your new dog

2009-12-19T11:17:00.000-06:00

How big do you want the dog to be when full-grown? Do you want a lap dog, or a larger dog that can live more outdoors?
Do you want to housetrain a puppy, or adopt a dog a bit older?
Do we want a male or a female? In most cases, since you are going to hopefully have the pet altered, it does not matter. The big difference is boys lift their legs and girls don’t!
Do you want a short haired or longhaired dog?
How do you feel about shedding?
If they are going to shed, what color hair would you like them to have?
Do you want a dog that needs frequent grooming, or none? And this means brushing and grooming at home, as well as professionally.
How much time will we have to exercise the dog, and how big is our house or yard?
Floppy ears, or ears that stand up?
Do you want a dog that will live 8-10 years or one that may live to 15 years?

Article by: Sallie S.

Selecting a Veterinarian

2009-11-17T10:27:00.001-06:00

You should check for a clean facility, separate examination rooms, and spacious boarding areas. If the veterinarian will not allow a visit to all areas of the clinic, you should find another veterinarian.
    There should be appropriate support-staff. Veterinarians need a whole crew of support people. Some are receptionists who are the people up front that you're dealing with the majority of the time. Others are veterinary technicians who are available to help handle your animal and do some of the routine procedures that a veterinarian is not going to take time to do. Your veterinarian should be willing to talk to you and answer your questions. They're our ultimate resource with regards to pet issues.
    Ask your breeder for a vet recommendation if you are buying from someone in your area. You may want to contact the local kennel club, cat club, bird club, etc. and ask for recommendations. If you get more than one recommendation, select one near your home.
    Always plan a visit to the veterinarian you have selected before you have an emergency. You should always take any new pet to the vet as soon as you can so that if there are any medical problems, you can return the pet to the breeder if you are not willing to pay the veterinary bills.

Pre-office Visit Training
    Train your pet to go into a kennel so the ride in the car will be a safe one. Touch your pet all over – its feet, tail, muzzle, and inside its ears as well as its stomach like your vet might during a physical examination.

At the Vet Office
    If you do not have your pet in a carrier, be prepared to carry your pet into the examination room should your pet not be able to walk comfortably on your vet's slick floors. Be present in the exam room, if possible. Talk calmly to your pet during the medical procedures so that your pet will feel safer. Take treats and have your vet offer a few as a friendly introduction. Follow your vet's instruction should the stress to you or your pet become too great during the exam. Reward your pet with a very special treat after the visit to the vet.
    It is probably a good idea to take extra bedding and a plastic bag should your pet have an “accident” in the car.

Prevention is Key
    Prevention is the key to a healthy pet and to saving money. An investment up front saves a great deal of expense down the road with regards to animal health care. Routine medical examinations, routine vaccinations, testing (like heartworm testing) and then the preventive medication that accompanies that are the key to preventing diseases or problems that could develop at some other point. So it's an initial investment, but over the long term you're going to save a lot of money.
    If a puppy comes down with something like distemper, it can cost a lot of dollars to try to save a puppy from that disease, but one simple vaccination at $10 to $15 a shot would have provided that animal a level of protection. That's not only a financial investment but heartache, as well, because it's often deadly.
    One area that a lot of people tend to not think about is some of the day-to-day, routine stuff that we can do ourselves, but it requires time. For example, trimming nails in cats or dogs. Some people go to the vet to have that done maybe $15, $20 a pop. We can easily learn how to do that ourselves if we have a good relationship with our vet, and they're willing to take time to teach us. Basic grooming with regards to brushing the animal out regularly and providing baths can same money on grooming. Basic exercise in terms of making sure that the animal stays healthy. If you brush the animal's teeth on a weekly basis, you're going to reduce that cost down the road. It can cost $100 to $200 to take your animal in have its teeth cleaned under anesthetic every year or two.

Pet insurance
    This is a newly developing industry. There are a couple of really good products out there. Specifics of what the plans cover really tend to vary from state to state. Certain states have certain requirements with regards to how pet insurance programs are managed. There, again, there's good information that can being found on the Internet. It's like buying insurance for everything. You're investing in some protection. Whether or not that ends up benefiting your family in the long run from a financial perspective really depends on what happens over the lifetime of your pet and, also, what kind of plan you invest in because just like human health care, there's a variety of different plans, different amounts of coverage that you can purchase. Veterinary Pet Insurance (VPI) has been the most reputable company for the longest period of time, but as of 2004, no pet insurance is available in Louisiana.

Guinea Pigs

2009-11-02T09:28:00.000-06:00

Guinea pigs are social animals, and you should consider keeping a same sex pair so they have company. A pair of females is a good choice; a pair of males may be fine but may fight.
They are a long-term commitment, with an expected life span of around 5-7 years, although up to 10 isn't unusual.
They need a large cage (but fortunately it is easy to meet their needs with a home made cage).
While usually quiet, they can call out quite loudly and can be active both day and night.
They may be nervous at first but rarely bite and generally become very tame with frequent handling.
Usually good family pets (but make sure children handle them gently).

Cage Size

Guinea pigs, being social creatures, do best kept in groups of two or more, but most readily available commercial cages are not large enough to house a pair of pigs. The guideline is 2 square feet per guinea pig; so for a pair you would need 4 square feet. Cages with wire floors must be avoided.

The good thing about guinea pigs is that they are fairly large and not all that big on climbing or chewing and are not likely to climb or jump over a wall that is a reasonable height (18 inches should contain most pigs). Several examples of clever cage solutions that utilize such items are children's wading pools, wire shelving and plastic storage tubs.

Bedding

For bedding, avoid cedar shavings and ideally pine as well. Aspen shavings are an acceptable choice, as is hay (a layer of paper underneath will help with absorbency). The newer recycled paper beddings are a good choice too, as are numerous other new types of pet-safe bedding and litter being made now. The cage will likely need to be cleaned weekly or more often.

Nest Box

A nest box or hiding place is a necessity - an overturned plastic tub or pail or a cardboard box is fine (the cardboard box can just be discarded if soiled and replaced). Large diameter PVC pipes (with thick walls) make good tunnels and places to hide too.

Toys

Toys such should be added for interest. Paper bags make good toys/hides, and crumpled paper, cardboard boxes, balls, wood blocks, hard plastic cat and rabbit toys, fleece tunnels, small fleece blankets, willow rabbit toys, and hanging bird toys might also interest your guinea pigs. Just make sure there are no small parts that might come off or get chewed off and swallowed.

Wheels are somewhat controversial; many experts believe that guinea pig bodies are not designed for this kind of exercise, and the risk of injury is too great. Try to provide exercise using other means.

Food Dishes and Water Bottle

For a food bowl, a heavy ceramic bowl is a good choice. Do not use too large of a bowl, or the guinea pig may climb in and unfortunately they are prone to defecating in their food bowls if they can get in. To keep a good supply of clean water, use a water bottle with a steel spout and ball, rather than a water bowl. Keep in mind that guinea pigs tend to drink a lot (and some "play" with the bottles) so keep an eye on their water supply throughout the day and replenish as necessary. A small hay hopper can be added to keep a supply of clean hay for the guinea pigs to nibble.

Article by: Sallie S.